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I have a 79 Winnebago with a Dodge 440. Whenever I slow down or try to accelerate from a stop it hesitates. Almost to the point of dying. I have had the Carb rebuilt and an inline fuel pump put on. I have insulated the gas line around the engine and checked to make sure there is no vacum in the gas tanks. Nothing seems to work. Any suggestions. This happens only when I am towing.
I have a 79 Winnebago with a Dodge 440. Whenever I slow down or try to accelerate from a stop it hesitates. Almost to the point of dying. I have had the Carb rebuilt and an inline fuel pump put on. I have insulated the gas line around the engine and checked to make sure there is no vacum in the gas tanks. Nothing seems to work. Any suggestions. This happens only when I am towing.
I can only think of several things that would causes your 2, unrelated problems. Let's look at the deceleration problem first. The odds are your rig has an automatic transmission. As it came from the factory, the original electronic ignition control box had a 5 pin connector. One of these circuits controlled a vacuum switching valve which turned the vacuum on or off to a throttle positioning valve located at the carburetor to "bump" and hold the throttle at around 1500 RPM whenever you took your foot off the throttle. This engine speed was held until the vehicle speed dropped below a certain MPH. Practically all the after-market replacement ignition modules do not have this feature, so it's possible that when you take your foot off the gas, the throttle snaps shut, and it takes the engine awhile to stabilize. There is also the possibility that your secondary throttle plates are hanging up and holding open for a bit. As for the acceleration hesitation. If you can accelerate away from a stop slowly without a problem, and it seems to run OK at highway speeds, and you've had the ignition looked at on a 'scope to insure all your secondary wiring is in good shape, then I'd suggest you do this to increase the coil's output past the puny 12,000 or so volts of the stock CryCo system. When CryCo went to electronic ignition, they retained the old point system coil and wound up with a comparatively low secondary voltage ignition,( a GMC HEI system can achieve 60,000 volts and Ford's Dura-Spark in the 30,000 + volt range). At an auto parts supply store, buy a ballast resister for a pre-electronic ignition, ( late 60's-early 70's) Chrysler product, it'll be a single unit. On your rig, locate the ballast resister, your's will be a double, side-by-side resister with small green wires on one side, and heavier red or pink on the other, one of these red or pink wires will have an additional wire connected to it, that's the starting resister by-pass wire. Take your newly purchased single resister, attach a wire to each end of it, and then spilce those wires over to the red or pink wires on the double unit, one to each end of it. This'll give you a system that will now produce around 24,000 volts and have a spark that will jump the plug gap when you increase the cylinder compression pressures by opening the throttle with the engine under load. We had to do this with our fleet of Dodge vehicles in order to get them to run decently. Never had an ignition component failure as a result of it, either.
I have a 79 Winnebago with a Dodge 440. Whenever I slow down or try to accelerate from a stop it hesitates. Almost to the point of dying. I have had the Carb rebuilt and an inline fuel pump put on. I have insulated the gas line around the engine and checked to make sure there is no vacum in the gas tanks. Nothing seems to work. Any suggestions. This happens only when I am towing.
I can only think of several things that would causes your 2, unrelated problems. Let's look at the deceleration problem first. The odds are your rig has an automatic transmission. As it came from the factory, the original electronic ignition control box had a 5 pin connector. One of these circuits controlled a vacuum switching valve which turned the vacuum on or off to a throttle positioning valve located at the carburetor to "bump" and hold the throttle at around 1500 RPM whenever you took your foot off the throttle. This engine speed was held until the vehicle speed dropped below a certain MPH. Practically all the after-market replacement ignition modules do not have this feature, so it's possible that when you take your foot off the gas, the throttle snaps shut, and it takes the engine awhile to stabilize. There is also the possibility that your secondary throttle plates are hanging up and holding open for a bit. As for the acceleration hesitation. If you can accelerate away from a stop slowly without a problem, and it seems to run OK at highway speeds, and you've had the ignition looked at on a 'scope to insure all your secondary wiring is in good shape, then I'd suggest you do this to increase the coil's output past the puny 12,000 or so volts of the stock CryCo system. When CryCo went to electronic ignition, they retained the old point system coil and wound up with a comparatively low secondary voltage ignition,( a GMC HEI system can achieve 60,000 volts and Ford's Dura-Spark in the 30,000 + volt range). At an auto parts supply store, buy a ballast resister for a pre-electronic ignition, ( late 60's-early 70's) Chrysler product, it'll be a single unit. On your rig, locate the ballast resister, your's will be a double, side-by-side resister with small green wires on one side, and heavier red or pink on the other, one of these red or pink wires will have an additional wire connected to it, that's the starting resister by-pass wire. Take your newly purchased single resister, attach a wire to each end of it, and then spilce those wires over to the red or pink wires on the double unit, one to each end of it. This'll give you a system that will now produce around 24,000 volts and have a spark that will jump the plug gap when you increase the cylinder compression pressures by opening the throttle with the engine under load. We had to do this with our fleet of Dodge vehicles in order to get them to run decently. Never had an ignition component failure as a result of it, either.
I have a 79 Winnebago with a Dodge 440. Whenever I slow down or try to accelerate from a stop it hesitates. Almost to the point of dying. I have had the Carb rebuilt and an inline fuel pump put on. I have insulated the gas line around the engine and checked to make sure there is no vacum in the gas tanks. Nothing seems to work. Any suggestions. This happens only when I am towing.
I can only think of several things that would causes your 2, unrelated problems. Let's look at the deceleration problem first. The odds are your rig has an automatic transmission. As it came from the factory, the original electronic ignition control box had a 5 pin connector. One of these circuits controlled a vacuum switching valve which turned the vacuum on or off to a throttle positioning valve located at the carburetor to "bump" and hold the throttle at around 1500 RPM whenever you took your foot off the throttle. This engine speed was held until the vehicle speed dropped below a certain MPH. Practically all the after-market replacement ignition modules do not have this feature, so it's possible that when you take your foot off the gas, the throttle snaps shut, and it takes the engine awhile to stabilize. There is also the possibility that your secondary throttle plates are hanging up and holding open for a bit. As for the acceleration hesitation. If you can accelerate away from a stop slowly without a problem, and it seems to run OK at highway speeds, and you've had the ignition looked at on a 'scope to insure all your secondary wiring is in good shape, then I'd suggest you do this to increase the coil's output past the puny 12,000 or so volts of the stock CryCo system. When CryCo went to electronic ignition, they retained the old point system coil and wound up with a comparatively low secondary voltage ignition,( a GMC HEI system can achieve 60,000 volts and Ford's Dura-Spark in the 30,000 + volt range). At an auto parts supply store, buy a ballast resister for a pre-electronic ignition, ( late 60's-early 70's) Chrysler product, it'll be a single unit. On your rig, locate the ballast resister, your's will be a double, side-by-side resister with small green wires on one side, and heavier red or pink on the other, one of these red or pink wires will have an additional wire connected to it, that's the starting resister by-pass wire. Take your newly purchased single resister, attach a wire to each end of it, and then spilce those wires over to the red or pink wires on the double unit, one to each end of it. This'll give you a system that will now produce around 24,000 volts and have a spark that will jump the plug gap when you increase the cylinder compression pressures by opening the throttle with the engine under load. We had to do this with our fleet of Dodge vehicles in order to get them to run decently. Never had an ignition component failure as a result of it, either.
Do you have a TCC soleniod in your Auto Tranny? If so I would check that since you have eliminated fuel and spark...
I have a 79 Winnebago with a Dodge 440. Whenever I slow down or try to accelerate from a stop it hesitates. Almost to the point of dying. I have had the Carb rebuilt and an inline fuel pump put on. I have insulated the gas line around the engine and checked to make sure there is no vacum in the gas tanks. Nothing seems to work. Any suggestions. This happens only when I am towing.
I can only think of several things that would causes your 2, unrelated problems. Let's look at the deceleration problem first. The odds are your rig has an automatic transmission. As it came from the factory, the original electronic ignition control box had a 5 pin connector. One of these circuits controlled a vacuum switching valve which turned the vacuum on or off to a throttle positioning valve located at the carburetor to "bump" and hold the throttle at around 1500 RPM whenever you took your foot off the throttle. This engine speed was held until the vehicle speed dropped below a certain MPH. Practically all the after-market replacement ignition modules do not have this feature, so it's possible that when you take your foot off the gas, the throttle snaps shut, and it takes the engine awhile to stabilize. There is also the possibility that your secondary throttle plates are hanging up and holding open for a bit. As for the acceleration hesitation. If you can accelerate away from a stop slowly without a problem, and it seems to run OK at highway speeds, and you've had the ignition looked at on a 'scope to insure all your secondary wiring is in good shape, then I'd suggest you do this to increase the coil's output past the puny 12,000 or so volts of the stock CryCo system. When CryCo went to electronic ignition, they retained the old point system coil and wound up with a comparatively low secondary voltage ignition,( a GMC HEI system can achieve 60,000 volts and Ford's Dura-Spark in the 30,000 + volt range). At an auto parts supply store, buy a ballast resister for a pre-electronic ignition, ( late 60's-early 70's) Chrysler product, it'll be a single unit. On your rig, locate the ballast resister, your's will be a double, side-by-side resister with small green wires on one side, and heavier red or pink on the other, one of these red or pink wires will have an additional wire connected to it, that's the starting resister by-pass wire. Take your newly purchased single resister, attach a wire to each end of it, and then spilce those wires over to the red or pink wires on the double unit, one to each end of it. This'll give you a system that will now produce around 24,000 volts and have a spark that will jump the plug gap when you increase the cylinder compression pressures by opening the throttle with the engine under load. We had to do this with our fleet of Dodge vehicles in order to get them to run decently. Never had an ignition component failure as a result of it, either.
Do you have a TCC soleniod in your Auto Tranny? If so I would check that since you have eliminated fuel and spark...
I have a 79 Winnebago with a Dodge 440. Whenever I slow down or try to accelerate from a stop it hesitates. Almost to the point of dying. I have had the Carb rebuilt and an inline fuel pump put on. I have insulated the gas line around the engine and checked to make sure there is no vacum in the gas tanks. Nothing seems to work. Any suggestions. This happens only when I am towing.
I can only think of several things that would causes your 2, unrelated problems. Let's look at the deceleration problem first. The odds are your rig has an automatic transmission. As it came from the factory, the original electronic ignition control box had a 5 pin connector. One of these circuits controlled a vacuum switching valve which turned the vacuum on or off to a throttle positioning valve located at the carburetor to "bump" and hold the throttle at around 1500 RPM whenever you took your foot off the throttle. This engine speed was held until the vehicle speed dropped below a certain MPH. Practically all the after-market replacement ignition modules do not have this feature, so it's possible that when you take your foot off the gas, the throttle snaps shut, and it takes the engine awhile to stabilize. There is also the possibility that your secondary throttle plates are hanging up and holding open for a bit. As for the acceleration hesitation. If you can accelerate away from a stop slowly without a problem, and it seems to run OK at highway speeds, and you've had the ignition looked at on a 'scope to insure all your secondary wiring is in good shape, then I'd suggest you do this to increase the coil's output past the puny 12,000 or so volts of the stock CryCo system. When CryCo went to electronic ignition, they retained the old point system coil and wound up with a comparatively low secondary voltage ignition,( a GMC HEI system can achieve 60,000 volts and Ford's Dura-Spark in the 30,000 + volt range). At an auto parts supply store, buy a ballast resister for a pre-electronic ignition, ( late 60's-early 70's) Chrysler product, it'll be a single unit. On your rig, locate the ballast resister, your's will be a double, side-by-side resister with small green wires on one side, and heavier red or pink on the other, one of these red or pink wires will have an additional wire connected to it, that's the starting resister by-pass wire. Take your newly purchased single resister, attach a wire to each end of it, and then spilce those wires over to the red or pink wires on the double unit, one to each end of it. This'll give you a system that will now produce around 24,000 volts and have a spark that will jump the plug gap when you increase the cylinder compression pressures by opening the throttle with the engine under load. We had to do this with our fleet of Dodge vehicles in order to get them to run decently. Never had an ignition component failure as a result of it, either.
Do you have a TCC soleniod in your Auto Tranny? If so I would check that since you have eliminated fuel and spark...
Stu, further correspondence clarified that the problem only occured on acceleration. ChryCo didn't use a converter clutch in the 727 in that year, but your observation of the symptons would be most indicative of a faulty TCC release.
I have a 79 Winnebago with a Dodge 440. Whenever I slow down or try to accelerate from a stop it hesitates. Almost to the point of dying. I have had the Carb rebuilt and an inline fuel pump put on. I have insulated the gas line around the engine and checked to make sure there is no vacum in the gas tanks. Nothing seems to work. Any suggestions. This happens only when I am towing.
I can only think of several things that would causes your 2, unrelated problems. Let's look at the deceleration problem first. The odds are your rig has an automatic transmission. As it came from the factory, the original electronic ignition control box had a 5 pin connector. One of these circuits controlled a vacuum switching valve which turned the vacuum on or off to a throttle positioning valve located at the carburetor to "bump" and hold the throttle at around 1500 RPM whenever you took your foot off the throttle. This engine speed was held until the vehicle speed dropped below a certain MPH. Practically all the after-market replacement ignition modules do not have this feature, so it's possible that when you take your foot off the gas, the throttle snaps shut, and it takes the engine awhile to stabilize. There is also the possibility that your secondary throttle plates are hanging up and holding open for a bit. As for the acceleration hesitation. If you can accelerate away from a stop slowly without a problem, and it seems to run OK at highway speeds, and you've had the ignition looked at on a 'scope to insure all your secondary wiring is in good shape, then I'd suggest you do this to increase the coil's output past the puny 12,000 or so volts of the stock CryCo system. When CryCo went to electronic ignition, they retained the old point system coil and wound up with a comparatively low secondary voltage ignition,( a GMC HEI system can achieve 60,000 volts and Ford's Dura-Spark in the 30,000 + volt range). At an auto parts supply store, buy a ballast resister for a pre-electronic ignition, ( late 60's-early 70's) Chrysler product, it'll be a single unit. On your rig, locate the ballast resister, your's will be a double, side-by-side resister with small green wires on one side, and heavier red or pink on the other, one of these red or pink wires will have an additional wire connected to it, that's the starting resister by-pass wire. Take your newly purchased single resister, attach a wire to each end of it, and then spilce those wires over to the red or pink wires on the double unit, one to each end of it. This'll give you a system that will now produce around 24,000 volts and have a spark that will jump the plug gap when you increase the cylinder compression pressures by opening the throttle with the engine under load. We had to do this with our fleet of Dodge vehicles in order to get them to run decently. Never had an ignition component failure as a result of it, either.
Do you have a TCC soleniod in your Auto Tranny? If so I would check that since you have eliminated fuel and spark...
Stu, further correspondence clarified that the problem only occured on acceleration. ChryCo didn't use a converter clutch in the 727 in that year, but your observation of the symptons would be most indicative of a faulty TCC release.
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