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Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
BODDY, HAVE YOU ADDED A THRANS. COOLER INFRONT OF THE RAD.? HAS THE HEADS BEEN REMOVED? OR THE FAN SHIELD BEEN CHANGED? IF YOU ARE OVERHEATING JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD AT 55 IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR AIR FLOW OR WATER FLOW IS BLOCKED. HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSON TEST TO SEE IF YOU MIGHT HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET. MY ENGINE REPAIR BOOK HAS SEVERAL ITEMS TO CHECK. YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT FINDING ONE. HAROLD
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
BODDY, HAVE YOU ADDED A THRANS. COOLER INFRONT OF THE RAD.? HAS THE HEADS BEEN REMOVED? OR THE FAN SHIELD BEEN CHANGED? IF YOU ARE OVERHEATING JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD AT 55 IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR AIR FLOW OR WATER FLOW IS BLOCKED. HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSON TEST TO SEE IF YOU MIGHT HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET. MY ENGINE REPAIR BOOK HAS SEVERAL ITEMS TO CHECK. YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT FINDING ONE. HAROLD
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
BODDY, HAVE YOU ADDED A THRANS. COOLER INFRONT OF THE RAD.? HAS THE HEADS BEEN REMOVED? OR THE FAN SHIELD BEEN CHANGED? IF YOU ARE OVERHEATING JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD AT 55 IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR AIR FLOW OR WATER FLOW IS BLOCKED. HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSON TEST TO SEE IF YOU MIGHT HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET. MY ENGINE REPAIR BOOK HAS SEVERAL ITEMS TO CHECK. YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT FINDING ONE. HAROLD
Sounds as if you've done all the right moves and your radiator is rejecting heat nicely. Since you're mointering block heat and find that it isn't agreeing with coolant temp, then the most logical question is, "where's the heat coming from?" The most logical answer is, "the cylinder heads", most notably in the exhaust valve area. I'd suggest you have the timing advance curve plotted, or do it yourself with an advance timing light in conjunction with a good tachometer, or a timing light that combines all three functions, (such as the Innova Equus light with the LCD screen). You may find that your engine timing is running retarded, due to either faulty mechanical or vacuum advance or both, which will produce added heat in the cylinder heads. Inadequate airflow in the engine bay is another thing to consider. This will cause exhaust system heat to be redirected into the coolant, bumping it's temperature. The family won't like it, and as the driver, you'll have to endure the heat and noise, but it's all done in the interest of science, remove the doghouse and go for a drive envolving some hills. Monitor the engine temp for improvement, if notable, you've found a contributing factor.
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
BODDY, HAVE YOU ADDED A THRANS. COOLER INFRONT OF THE RAD.? HAS THE HEADS BEEN REMOVED? OR THE FAN SHIELD BEEN CHANGED? IF YOU ARE OVERHEATING JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD AT 55 IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR AIR FLOW OR WATER FLOW IS BLOCKED. HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSON TEST TO SEE IF YOU MIGHT HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET. MY ENGINE REPAIR BOOK HAS SEVERAL ITEMS TO CHECK. YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT FINDING ONE. HAROLD
Sounds as if you've done all the right moves and your radiator is rejecting heat nicely. Since you're mointering block heat and find that it isn't agreeing with coolant temp, then the most logical question is, "where's the heat coming from?" The most logical answer is, "the cylinder heads", most notably in the exhaust valve area. I'd suggest you have the timing advance curve plotted, or do it yourself with an advance timing light in conjunction with a good tachometer, or a timing light that combines all three functions, (such as the Innova Equus light with the LCD screen). You may find that your engine timing is running retarded, due to either faulty mechanical or vacuum advance or both, which will produce added heat in the cylinder heads. Inadequate airflow in the engine bay is another thing to consider. This will cause exhaust system heat to be redirected into the coolant, bumping it's temperature. The family won't like it, and as the driver, you'll have to endure the heat and noise, but it's all done in the interest of science, remove the doghouse and go for a drive envolving some hills. Monitor the engine temp for improvement, if notable, you've found a contributing factor.
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
BODDY, HAVE YOU ADDED A THRANS. COOLER INFRONT OF THE RAD.? HAS THE HEADS BEEN REMOVED? OR THE FAN SHIELD BEEN CHANGED? IF YOU ARE OVERHEATING JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD AT 55 IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR AIR FLOW OR WATER FLOW IS BLOCKED. HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSON TEST TO SEE IF YOU MIGHT HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET. MY ENGINE REPAIR BOOK HAS SEVERAL ITEMS TO CHECK. YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT FINDING ONE. HAROLD
Sounds as if you've done all the right moves and your radiator is rejecting heat nicely. Since you're mointering block heat and find that it isn't agreeing with coolant temp, then the most logical question is, "where's the heat coming from?" The most logical answer is, "the cylinder heads", most notably in the exhaust valve area. I'd suggest you have the timing advance curve plotted, or do it yourself with an advance timing light in conjunction with a good tachometer, or a timing light that combines all three functions, (such as the Innova Equus light with the LCD screen). You may find that your engine timing is running retarded, due to either faulty mechanical or vacuum advance or both, which will produce added heat in the cylinder heads. Inadequate airflow in the engine bay is another thing to consider. This will cause exhaust system heat to be redirected into the coolant, bumping it's temperature. The family won't like it, and as the driver, you'll have to endure the heat and noise, but it's all done in the interest of science, remove the doghouse and go for a drive envolving some hills. Monitor the engine temp for improvement, if notable, you've found a contributing factor.
harold yes have trans cooler. theres no water in oil or oily substance in anti-freeze could i still have a blown gasket or cracked block?
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
BODDY, HAVE YOU ADDED A THRANS. COOLER INFRONT OF THE RAD.? HAS THE HEADS BEEN REMOVED? OR THE FAN SHIELD BEEN CHANGED? IF YOU ARE OVERHEATING JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD AT 55 IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR AIR FLOW OR WATER FLOW IS BLOCKED. HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSON TEST TO SEE IF YOU MIGHT HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET. MY ENGINE REPAIR BOOK HAS SEVERAL ITEMS TO CHECK. YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT FINDING ONE. HAROLD
Sounds as if you've done all the right moves and your radiator is rejecting heat nicely. Since you're mointering block heat and find that it isn't agreeing with coolant temp, then the most logical question is, "where's the heat coming from?" The most logical answer is, "the cylinder heads", most notably in the exhaust valve area. I'd suggest you have the timing advance curve plotted, or do it yourself with an advance timing light in conjunction with a good tachometer, or a timing light that combines all three functions, (such as the Innova Equus light with the LCD screen). You may find that your engine timing is running retarded, due to either faulty mechanical or vacuum advance or both, which will produce added heat in the cylinder heads. Inadequate airflow in the engine bay is another thing to consider. This will cause exhaust system heat to be redirected into the coolant, bumping it's temperature. The family won't like it, and as the driver, you'll have to endure the heat and noise, but it's all done in the interest of science, remove the doghouse and go for a drive envolving some hills. Monitor the engine temp for improvement, if notable, you've found a contributing factor.
harold yes have trans cooler. theres no water in oil or oily substance in anti-freeze could i still have a blown gasket or cracked block?
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
BODDY, HAVE YOU ADDED A THRANS. COOLER INFRONT OF THE RAD.? HAS THE HEADS BEEN REMOVED? OR THE FAN SHIELD BEEN CHANGED? IF YOU ARE OVERHEATING JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD AT 55 IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR AIR FLOW OR WATER FLOW IS BLOCKED. HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSON TEST TO SEE IF YOU MIGHT HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET. MY ENGINE REPAIR BOOK HAS SEVERAL ITEMS TO CHECK. YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT FINDING ONE. HAROLD
Sounds as if you've done all the right moves and your radiator is rejecting heat nicely. Since you're mointering block heat and find that it isn't agreeing with coolant temp, then the most logical question is, "where's the heat coming from?" The most logical answer is, "the cylinder heads", most notably in the exhaust valve area. I'd suggest you have the timing advance curve plotted, or do it yourself with an advance timing light in conjunction with a good tachometer, or a timing light that combines all three functions, (such as the Innova Equus light with the LCD screen). You may find that your engine timing is running retarded, due to either faulty mechanical or vacuum advance or both, which will produce added heat in the cylinder heads. Inadequate airflow in the engine bay is another thing to consider. This will cause exhaust system heat to be redirected into the coolant, bumping it's temperature. The family won't like it, and as the driver, you'll have to endure the heat and noise, but it's all done in the interest of science, remove the doghouse and go for a drive envolving some hills. Monitor the engine temp for improvement, if notable, you've found a contributing factor.
kent thanks for the info ill print it out and take it with me to dodge mech. thanks again kent
bobby
Have been fighting a heating problem with this engine. Replaced the radiator with a 4 core, new clutch fan, thermostadt(190), hoses, belts, water pump, radiator cap (16#) tempurature gauge. Bought an infra red thermometer (IRT) and checked the engine while hot. The water coming out of the engine is just as the dash gauge says.The probe for the manual gauge is next to the thermostadt housing in the block. At 220 on the dash gauge the water hits the top of the radiator at 220, as it proceedes down the radiator it cools to 135. The hoses back to the engine show 135. The engine block gets no hotter than 195. Pulling a grade the dash gauge shows 250 max.(it is calibrated to only 260) The IRT shows the water hitting the top of the radiator at 230 and coming out the bottom at 150. I have a 2000 dodge ram and it never gets above 190 coming out of the engine. The engine block is at 190 also. My question is...why?
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 440-3 ENGINE. TALKED TO A DODGE MECHANIC AT THE DODGE DEALER AND HE TOLD ME TO CHECK THE THERMSTAT. WHEN I DID I FOUND OUT THAT A CAR THERMSTAT HAD BEEN INSTALLED. THE ENGINES IN THE MOTOR HOMES REQUIRES A SPECIAL ONE. THE OPENIING IS ALMOST 1/3 BIGGER OPENING. WHEN I INSTALLED THE CORRECT THERMSTAT MY OVERHEAT PROBLEMS WHERE GONE. CHECK WITH A DODGE DEALER THAT SELLS BIG TRUCKS AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO HELP YOU GET THE CORRECT THERMSTAT. HAROLD
Phil and Harold I have exactly the same problem with my 440 in my 81 Georgie Boy, but unlike Harold, a high performance thermostat 195 did not work. Still puzzled and don't know what the problem is. I've done everything that Phil has done and am still running at 230 - 240 when doing below 55 mph on the highway. Any other suggestions? Feel free to e-mail me. Thanks; wish I could help! Bobby
BODDY, HAVE YOU ADDED A THRANS. COOLER INFRONT OF THE RAD.? HAS THE HEADS BEEN REMOVED? OR THE FAN SHIELD BEEN CHANGED? IF YOU ARE OVERHEATING JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD AT 55 IT SOUNDS LIKE YOUR AIR FLOW OR WATER FLOW IS BLOCKED. HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSON TEST TO SEE IF YOU MIGHT HAVE A BAD HEAD GASKET. MY ENGINE REPAIR BOOK HAS SEVERAL ITEMS TO CHECK. YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT FINDING ONE. HAROLD
Sounds as if you've done all the right moves and your radiator is rejecting heat nicely. Since you're mointering block heat and find that it isn't agreeing with coolant temp, then the most logical question is, "where's the heat coming from?" The most logical answer is, "the cylinder heads", most notably in the exhaust valve area. I'd suggest you have the timing advance curve plotted, or do it yourself with an advance timing light in conjunction with a good tachometer, or a timing light that combines all three functions, (such as the Innova Equus light with the LCD screen). You may find that your engine timing is running retarded, due to either faulty mechanical or vacuum advance or both, which will produce added heat in the cylinder heads. Inadequate airflow in the engine bay is another thing to consider. This will cause exhaust system heat to be redirected into the coolant, bumping it's temperature. The family won't like it, and as the driver, you'll have to endure the heat and noise, but it's all done in the interest of science, remove the doghouse and go for a drive envolving some hills. Monitor the engine temp for improvement, if notable, you've found a contributing factor.
kent thanks for the info ill print it out and take it with me to dodge mech. thanks again kent
bobby
email Phil G.
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