ATTENTION: All Postings that advertise items for sale will be deleted from the Discussion Forum. You may post sale items for free in the Classifieds section. Sign up now.
I have a 1996 Ford 460 engine in my class C motorhome. I have had 2 occasions when the engine has died going up a hill while at high altitudes and when the outside temperature has been hot (over 95 degrees). When stepping on the throttle going up a steep hill the engine dies. Is it possible that the fuel line is too close to the exhaust manifold and the fuel is evaporating before it gets to the engine? We have replaced the fuel filters several times and that hasn't helped. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks.
I have a 1996 Ford Class C w/460. I was on my way home form the Coast last weekend when after driving 150 miles in 100 degree heat the engine died and wouldn't start. After 20 minutes it would start but would only idle and would die if I gave it any gas. After an 1 1/2 hours it started and ran fine the last 10 mile to home. I have a appointment with a shop Friday to see if it logged anything on the microprocessor. I will let you know if we find a problem. Doug.
Is the pump in the gas tank ??? If so, and its electric, the wire could be loose or the pump could be defective and the splash of the gas stops the pump or covers the line sock with some trash.....
Did the check engine light come on.?Did the engine start back up.? Does it ever do it at low altitudes.? Was the gas fresh or has it been in tank from last winter,? Vapor lock should not be much of a problem with fuel injection with the fuel under pressure from the tank to the engine.Some areas have winter gas and summer gas.Gas from last winter may cause a problem on hot days of summer.You might have the fuel pressure checked if it continues to be a problem. Good Luck Mike
I have a 1990 Ford Econoline 460 motorhome. Last week I was returning from Washinton State, driving down Interstate 5. The weather outside was 103 degrees. The motorhome died just as if it ran out of gas. We waited 45 min. and it ran for another 20 miles, same thing happened. Then we drove it to the coast in cooler weather 80-85 degrees and we were able to drive for nine straight hours. We had a mechanic check out the fuel, air and ignition systems and they all checked out perfect. Weird frigging stuff! Please help with advice.
I have a 1996 Class A with a 460 with engine stalling problems. When running in hot climates or high altitudes the engine will sputter and quit. It will not restart until after it cools off -- then it runs perfectly again. It did not do this when new. I have about 40,000 mi on the coach now. With the exception of a Jacobs Ignition System (installed when new), the coach is stock. Is the fuel pump deteriorating or ??? Thanks for any help.
Last summer I drove my 1996 460 ford powered Class A Itasca from Texas to Oregon and back. On the way to Denver it died three times. The last time I called Ford's 800 emergency number and the guy said go loosen the gas cap and try to start it. IT STARTED!! He then said there was a recall on these in-tank fuel pumps and I should go get it replaced. Also he said, on the last 100 miles into Denver, fill the tank and don't let it go below 1/2 full. I did and made on in to Denver. Got the pump replaced and had no more trouble. Mountain States Ford Truck Repair Center in Denver did the work and I sailed up to Eisenhower tunnel at 40 mph!!! Had no more problems on the rest of the trip to Oregon and back thru Yellowstone to Texas.
I have a 1990 class A motorhome with a Ford 460 and live in Las Vegas, Nevada where it gets hot as hell. I go about 15 or 20 miles and the motor home will die and won't start back up untill it sets for maybe 45 minutes to an hour. Once she starts up again she'll rock and roll for another 15 or 20 miles and takes another rest. any one with the fix it answer.? Thanks
Living in British Columbia = Mountain driving. On one very hot day {100+} our '88 Class C, which is not EFI,did the same. stop go...cool down ect. We were able to limp home. Our mechanic,
also could not find any thing wrong.
The problem was resolved by mounting two electric Bendix fuel pumps spaced evenly from the tank to the carb. Never have had a problem since.He claimed that that it was too long of a distance for the 'factory pump' to handle. Thispump was left on the motor.
{Side line} I had a Pro - Street pickup that had similar problems. It was a 454 with 2 competion carters. It would also ocassionly spudder and stop,as if running out of fuel. It was!
A high volume electric pump did the trick. Here is a 'çut & paste'article regarding the pump I bought. Hope these point may be of help to you. They also have 'high prussure'pumps for pumps in fuel tanks. Also have some one check your fuel pressure.
Regards...michael
Quote:..."Pump Up The Volume Part 1 -- Technical Article" -- Chevy High Performance Magazine
Building The Proper Fuel System For Carbureted Applications
By Bob Mehlhoff
te:
This month we'll take a hard look at selecting proper fuel pumps, filters, lines, and system components for a carbureted system and follow up it next month with similar principles for fuel-injected appli-cations. Now, whether your forte is drag racing or road racing, a good supply of fuel fed to your engine at the right pressure (under all driving circumstances) is critical to achieving the ultimate performance.
Choose the Right Pump First
When choosing a pump, you'll first need to determine how much power your engine is developing (under full power) at the flywheel and how much fuel will be required to support it. If you don't have actual dyno results, you can estimate your power. For most carbureted systems on street engines developing under 450 horses, an off-the-shelf performance mechanical fuel pump installed to a properly maintained fuel system should work fine. Get into higher horsepower numbers, or add nitrous or a supercharger to your engine, and you'll need a properly installed, significantly stronger electric pump. a a gallon of fuel weighs about 6.2 pounds.
Fuel Pressure & Volume
The relationship between fuel pressure and volume is inversely proportional. As fuel system pressure rises, the pump's volume decreases. In addition, the force of a car moving forward and the friction the fuel encounters in the system thorough lines and fittings may also impede the delivery at the carburetor.
In order to supply fuel in the most efficient way, you'll want to use adequately sized lines (typically 1/2-inch id) and fittings without sharp bends. As a rule, a 90-degree fitting is equal to adding several more feet of line into the system (about 10 extra feet of line). This means that it's better to use two 45-degree fittings to negotiate a turn instead of one 90-degree fitting. When routing your fuel line, be sure to keep the line away from exhaust components and moving suspension parts, and never route a fuel line through the interior of your car.
Remember that the fuel your engine needs has to be delivered past the fuel pressure regulator and the needles and seats, and the fuel delivery system competes against g-force and friction in the system. Also, make sure your fuel pump is mounted where gravity will help draw fuel to the inlet. Ideally this is at the rear, lower side of the tank. If this isn't possible, at bare minimum you'll have need to mount the pump near the tank, since electric fuel pumps are better pushers than pullers.
Had smae problem hot day, high altittude,etc. It was vapor lock. Cause, winter fuel. Winter fuel has lower vaper pressure (presure at which it turnss to vapor, I.E. the high the altitude the lower the pressure the hotter the lower the pressure) than summer fuel. also remember that ford ambulanceses with 460s had problems with catching fire when just idleing. the 460 has very high exhast temps. do not do anythind that might prevent air from exiting from inder the motorhome, extended mud flaps, brushes to protect a toad vehicle, etc.
also had friend with bad problems found he had an exaust leak where exaust tube curves over rear axle. right beside gas tank!
had the exhaust fixed, no more problems
conclusion high temps under motorhome can overcome even 30 to 40 PSI fuel injection fuel pumps.
I no longer store fuel in my tank but buy fuel just before leaving for my trip.
don't know how to prevent heat buildup under motorhome at high altitude, slow speed with hard pull.
fresh gas does help though.
email Michael
reply to message
post new message
search forums