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I have a 2.5l 4 cyl iron duke in a chevy s10. It is throttle body injected. I just rebuilt the motor in feb. and when I shut off the motor it doesn't shut off right away. it stays running for a second or two. It's getting embarassing. any help would be appreciated.
I too am experiencing engine run-on (won't shut off with key) in my '72 Ford 391. I replaced the regulator and wired it per the Ford manul. The replacement regulator did not come with a diode. I don't have a indicator lamp so didn't conncect the (i) wire on the regulator. Anyone have any suggestions?
If you can, check at the ignition 12 volt input and see if it is shutting off when you turn the key off. Check this with it running and key off and just key on and off. If there is a bad diode in the alternator it can feed back to the ignition (run) side of the switch and keep them running until the field completely collapses in the alternator. If this is the case, you will see the 12 volt feed slowly fall away until it dies. The module should shut off at about 10 volts.
In the old days with point distributors when this happened it could take as long as a minute for one to completely die.
I had one vehicle come in that was doing this. Traced it down to an add on electric fan, wired into the switch so it ran whenever key was on. As the fan had a permanet magnet field motor, when the key was turned off, the fan would take a moment or two to come to rest, until it did, it was acting as a generator, feeding power to the ignition, a diode in the fan feed fixed the problem.
Hi did you ever find out what was wrong with your van?my ford courier is doin the same thing but is also taking longer to start up,ive been told it could be the shut off vave?hope not because this is very expensive to fix
Fords are notoriouse for that problem volt regulater to cylenoid, remember nothing left but bacics, good luck tires horn blinkers brake lights tag light INSPECTION STICKER.
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