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While getting ready for a trip put batteries back in coach. Will not start. Have changed and tried everything right up to and including the distributor. Juice in but no juice out. Need help asap. Everyone is stumped.
Ok on my 96 geo metro we bought a new fuel fiter and that did not solve nothing so we look at it again and we found out it was the fuel injector so we bought that and replace the old one we got fire and the fuel shoots down to tha thottle but it whould not start so we look at the muffer and the fuel shoot out of the tail pipe could it be a byepass ever where in the fuel lines that whould do that.
Dennis: You needs four things to make an engine run. Compression, spark, fuel, and air. You said juice in, but no juice out. I guess you mean no juice to the plugs, or did you mean current to the primary side of the coil, but none out of the secondary. You didn't say the year of the engine either. Electronic ignition, check current to the primary, if current is there but none to the plugs, do ohm meter check on the coil. Check the module in the distribitor. Two wire leads to it.
OK, do this. Using an volt/ohm meter, and with key "on", check the voltage at the large wire on side of distributor cap---I'm assuming you have HEI system. Voltage should be at or near battery voltage. If that checks OK, then turn key off and remove wires from distrib. cap, and remove cap. Lay upside down, set your ohm meter to X1 scale and connect ohm meter leads to the two large terminals on the outermost of the cap connection, these are the Bat and Tac/Tach connectors and are so marked You should get an ohm reading of.4 to 1. If that checks OK, then remove the ohm meter read from the Bat terminal and place it on the center of the three small terminals, leave the other lead on the Tac/Tach terminal, you should get no reading at all. If the coil dosen't pass these tests, replace it. If coil checks OK, then set ohm meter to X 1,000. Hold one ohm meter lead on the center brush in the cap, touch the other lead to the Tach terminal and note reading, then touch it to the ground terminal, note reading. At the tach terminal, you should get 6,000-30,000 ohms on 75 and earlier coils, and no reading on later coils.At the ground terminal you should get no reading on 75 and earlier coils, and 6,000-30,000 ohms on later coils. While you have the cap off, go to the distrib and disconnect the two larger wires at the module. Set ohm meter to X 100 scale and touch the leads to the two wires. You should get between 500-1,500 ohm reading. Next, move one of the leads over to a good ground on the distrib, you should get no reading, repeat this test on the other wire. Next, disconnect the capacitor(condensor), set the ohm meter to X 1,000 scale and place on ohm meter lead on the capacitor terminal and touch the other to a good distributor ground, the meter should jump slightly and then drop to no reading. If you do all this, and everything checks OK and you still get no spark at the plugs, then replace the module inside the distributor.
Dennis, I went through almost exactly what you have, Got home from a 2000 mile trip, was running great when I shut it off. Next weekend went out to start for another trip, no start. Ran tests like Sam said even replacing coil, module etc. Had spark to plugs(weak), fuel. Last resort I replaced the timing chain, it had enough play that I believed it had slipped a tooth or so. Put it all back together with the original distributor parts and it fired right up and has ran like a champ. Hope that you don't have to do this, just wanted to let you know.
PULL YOUR ROTOR AND LOOK ON THE BACK SIDE FOR A SMALL SPOT OF CARBON TRACKIN IN THE MIDDLE AN A SMALL BURNT SPOT THIS WILL CAUSE THE SPARK TO GROUND REPLACE THE ROTOR SHOULD START BUT THE REAL TROUBLE WILL BE PLUGS OR WIRES CAUSING HIGH RESISTANT
I replaced my distributor because the gears on the bottom of the shaft were wore out (missing three teeth) now I am trying to install a new distributor but can not get the timming right.
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