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Just changed the rad and thermostat on an 1989 Acura legend. Before the change everything was workin find (heater etc..). The rad cracked, dumped all the coolant and it overheated.
So now - new rad, new thermostat, engine runs fine - no coolant leaks I can see.
However, with the car at operating temperature I get luke warm air from all the vents. Upper rad hose is hot, heater core inlet is hot, heater core outlet is warm (not near as hot as inlet). If I rev up the engine I get hot air (ie. normal performance), but as soon as the car goes back to idle - cool air.
I really need help with this as I can't figure it out.
The water pump was changed two years ago, and i don't think its a blocked heater core as it was working fine before the rad change and overheating incident.
Any help you guys can offer would be greatly apprecaited...could this be a bad head gasket??
Thanks in advance, and please don't hesitate to email me or respond to this post.
You probably have trapped air in the heater core. Sometimes this will give you the condition you are describing. If you have a head gasket starting to go, it will also put air in the heater core and you won't get much heat. The indication of a head gasket starting to go is loss of coolant and or high pressure in the cooling system.
I just changed my engine in a 1995 acura legend with a jdm engine and my car started overheating two days later.Now my heater core is leakinf anti freeze like crazy. I never had this problem before I changed the jdm engine.Is there some alteration needed to be done on the jdm engine.
Did you check on the bottom of the thermo. and or package to see if the thermo. you installed was the same temp. as the one you removed. A 180 deg. thermo. will usually give a "warm" feeling temp. When you run the engine up, the temp. will increase, normal, until the temp. gets to the factory installed 195 deg. sending unit installed in the bottom of the radiator for the fans to kick on. This could be why it is one temp. at an idle, then a hotter temp. at a high RPM speed. I kinda feel you put in the wrong temperature thermostat. As far as air in the heater core, it should "Burp" it self, the heater core is lower than the top of the radiator, you know, gravity. Head gasket?, if there is water in the oil. steam coming out the exhaust, or the radiator is pressurized in less than a minute, that would be a head gasket problem. One other thing, feel the heater hoses, with heater temp. lever on High, and fan off, both hoses should be Hot and feel about, or close to, the same Temp. If heated control valve is cable operated, check to see if the cable didn't come off, or get moved while you were working under the hood, it happens.
I will appreciate your reply. I am getting crazy.I took 3 days off already from work n beating my head to solve this problem. My car tempature goes to H. Changed thermostate. Good for year again this year temperature starts goin up. Changed again thermostate but doesn't help. I changed radiator a year ago too. Now as by advise of 5 mechanic I changed water pump which costs too much. Well holy shit still temperature goin up. I though maybe AC is on dats y. I turned off n check still going up. But I have notice fan is not working when temp is near H. Today I check while fan running with no pressure in raditor engine hose still temp gauage is near H. What should I do. I am getting crazy here. I spend more than 600 dollars already still temp. Notice temp never went up while driving on highway. Its when engine is idle not driving ot drivoing local near 20mph.
I can't get any flow in my legend cooling syste. I have all the symptoms. I changed the t-stat with same temp one, changed radiator/fan switch sender, changed antifreeze. I noticed not much water come out from behind the t-stat (I remember much more from other vehicles). Ran engine for 30 min with bleeder open and cap off. No bubbles out of top of radiator and just steam and a few spurts out of bleeder. Top hose hot and bottom hose cold. There are no restrictions. Two things I can think of are: bad water pump (no leaking of fluid anywhere though) or I need to force the antifreeze in past the t-stat. I need help...does anyone have an answer since this seems to be a common problem with this car (Acura Legend)
Cooling fans not coming on -replaced sending unit on top of motor and fans started working. A few days later they stopped working again. Jumped across leads to sending unit and fans still won't work. Where do I start looking next.
Am interested in buying a new replacement engine for my 1994 acura legend, GS. Any price quotes or idea of a good company that sells them.
Thanks
David
Hi, I have a coolant proble with my 94 acra legend. the cooling fan doesn't come on when the car gets hot. I change the fans, and change what I believe is the relay for he fans. My question is what can I do to help find out what is wrong, or what should I do to fix it???
I had the same problem with my 95 legend. All you should have to do is bleed the coolant system and get rid of the trapped air. After that you should be warm again.
The temperature gauge was going to the H which is overheating. I have replaced the thermostat. One mechanic stated,"that I needed to repair the heater core and coolant fan switch." So I went and got a second opinion and the mechanic tested the cylinder on firing position and injected 100 psi air pressure into each cylinder, check air movement in intake manifold, and exhaust manifold and into the cooling system. All of the test passed, so therefore I was stated that it was not the head gasket. The mechanic repaired 3 hoses, fast idle valve hose, by-pass hose. Once I left the mechanic shop the temperature gauge began to rise appromx. after 7 minutes when I was at a stopping position. Does the car have to burp first in order for the temperature gauge to correct itself. I drove today and the temperature gauge stayed at the 1/2 mark until I went into a drive-thru, having to sit for a bit and it began to rise. When I drove off it went back down to the 1/2 mark. Do I need to have the mechanic bleed my coolant system.
After spending $2600 replacing all parts of the cooling system, I believe I can answer just about every question concerning this matter. So please, forward your questions to me. I would be more than glad to help considering that some of you will save in the torturing pains that auto repairs inflicts on ones wallet.
It is your heater core! I went through the same misery up to and including having mechanics tell me i had ablown head gasket and crack in the block that would cost thousands to repair, did pressure tests and they were good, compression test and they were good, changed all belts and sensors and hoses, and still the problem persisted, finally i cut the hoses going to and from the heater core and bipassed it altogether and what do you know no more over heating or back boiling. If you don't want to put out 500 bucks today, then leave hosoes on and save your money if you can't do the work your self cause it is an all day job requring everything in the front to come out including the dash and all, hope this helps.
My car and problem is just similar to steve's dilema. one additional note is that my cooling sys lets out a lot of air when the rad. cap is opened, even when the engine has cooled down. Please help
email Dave
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