Featured State...
North Dakota
Sioux State, Flickertail State, Peace Garden State

Most Rural
North Dakota is the most rural of all the states, with farmland covering more than 90 percent of the state.

Got Milk?
The official drink of North Dakota is milk.

Bird Watching Anyone?
North Dakota is a bird watcher's paradise, with some 365 species of commonly seen songbirds, shorebirds, birds of prey, wading birds, upland birds, and more nesting waterfowl than any other state.

Famous People

Web Sites
www.state.nd.us/
www.50states.com/ndakota.htm
www.npsc.nbs.gov/resource/

North Dakota Historic Sites
Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site
Williston, ND

Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site
Stanton, ND

Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail
Eleven States:, ID,IL,IA,KS,MO,MT,NE,ND,OR,SD,WA

North Country National Scenic Trail
Seven States-New York to North Dakota, MI,MN,ND,NY,OH,PA,WI

Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Medora, ND (South Unit). The North Unit is located 15 miles south of Watford City, ND

Site Updates
The RV-Coach Network is continually upgrading our web sites in response to your feedback. Below is a summary of the most significant recent changes.

RV Ratings
We've invited visitors to the RV-Coach Network of web sites to rate their RVs. So far, more than 1,000 of your fellow RVers have shared their opinions. You're welcome to review the results and complete the survey yourself.

Roadmaster Tow Bars
The RV-Coach Network now offers great prices on a full range of Roadmaster tow bars and related equipment.

RV Rental Directory
If you're considering renting an RV for your next road trip, check out our directory of RV rental outlets.

RV Dealers Special
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Benefits of a Dealer account:

• Show your inventory to 100,000+ RVers each month.
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• Gain exposure on web sites throughout the RV-Coach Network.
• Enjoy priority rankings within category and search result listings.
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Private Owners --
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Fast FAQs
Below is one of our most popular Frequently Asked Question in recent weeks. For more RV FAQs, please visit our FAQs section, where you are invited to contribute your own FAQ.

Q: What are my options when selecting a water heater?

A: You have many choices, including high recovery gas, gas-electric and motor aid models with sizes and features to match the requirements of virtually any RV. There are a number of reasons, longer tank life, most come with a 3-year tank limited warranty, anode rod protection, porcelain lining and efficient copolymer insulation jacket. There are 3, 6 and 10 gallon models, standard gas, gas-electric combinations and a motor aid heat exchanger to utilize engine heat on motor homes. Also available are flush mount and standard mount doors.

Chat Box
We appreciate all our visitors, especially those who are willing to help out fellow RVers. This newsletter, special thanks goes to Gary CC NV, Sam Watson, and jd for sharing their years of expertise with a stranded RVer.

Mechanic's Corner:
Ford 460 7.5L engine problems on a 87 Class C

A: from Jef Galanzzi -- -- This is my first post and I would like to say I'm glad it's here and I hope someone reads and responds to my problem. So, here goes...

My Class C was left for 9 mos without starting here in Florida ( I know-BAD!). With all that, it started with no problems. Onan also was fine, believe it or not.

I stayed at a camp a month and went to another where I am currently stranded. My RV began to backfire with flames and black smoke from the tailpipe. I did a full tune-up with slight improvement. Then black smoke returned with some backfiring and stalling when giving gas. When accelerating, it appeared fine and I did 500 miles of testing before it began to backfire at stop signs and lights (when foot was released from gas pedal, i heard it backfire).

I might add here that the black smoke was totally gone if I or someone else put the smallest pressure on the gas pedal but when foot was taken off the black smoke returned.

For 4 days after this, I tried to start it again and it just flooded. At one point I had a flame up with the air cleaner housing removed. The tailpipe also has an intense smell of gas.

I called a mobile mech to the RV park and he couldnt start it either. He got burned from more flames even though I told him not to start it with the air cleaner cover off. He said I need a NEW Holley carb. OK.

I paid $350 for a NEW carb. The mobile mech came and put it in and the RV still wouldn't start. We took out the plugs and they were all fouled up with gas. While the mechanic was trying to start it, a HUGE pop came from the tailpipe and all the Rvers came over to see if I had shot him in frustration.......)

The meshing on the tailpipe blew apart and the tailpipe still reeks of gas today (3 days after the NEW carb was put in) and so does the engine block. The spark plugs are still out, to dry out the holes.

How can the gas be taken out of the whole long tailpipe in order to start it safely without an explosion?

I am going to get it towed to a garage thru Good Sams this week......

Has anyone had these kinda probs like this with their 460?
ANY advice would be helpful....

(I sold my car after the test rides were good on the motorhome so I'm sorta now stranded here. Thnx to the kindness of other RVers, they take me to the store.....

Now someone told me that my problem was simple: it is caused by a oil pressure sensor, which needs to be replaced. I saw the suggestion on another forum.

god bless and thx

jef and dog

A: from Gary CC NV -- Ignition Module.
First clue, "appeared fine and did 500 miles". Backfiring out of both ends is 99% electrical.

A: Sam Watson -- Gary's got it nailed, 80% of carb problems ARE electrical. Given the age of your rig, I'd say a safe bet is to replace the module, about $35-$50, along with replacing the cap and rotor, as well as (at least), the wire between the coil tower and the distributor cap. The oil pressure switch that you saw mentioned on another forum will not cause your problem. Rather, if it is faulty, you will NOT have gas being delivered to your carb. I would also check the float settings on your replacement carb -- at least that's something easily done on a Holley.

A: from Sam Watson -- Forgot to add, check or replace the pickup coil in the distributor. Though they seldom give trouble, it is the unit that "tells" the module when to "fire" the coil. In fact, I'd start by checking it first, something simple to do. Here's how: With key "off", remove distributor cap, both sections, remove rotor. You'll see the pickup coil and the eight segmented "fingers" of the trigger. Bump the engine over with the starter until no finger is aligned with the center of the pickup coil. Turn the key to "on". Hold the end of the thick wire coming from the coil tower about an 1/8th inch from a metal surface on the engine and pass a small iron or steel piece, such as the blade of a small screwdriver, close to and across the center of the pickup coil, simulating the action of one of the "fingers". You should get a spark at the coil wire. If you don't, I'd first check for current reaching the coil when the key is "on". Use a 12-volt test light for this. Ford had some problems with the ignition switches in these years. The switch is located down on the steering column and is activated by a link up to the steering wheel lock, so it is quite easy to replace. How's all the explosions, etc affecting the dog? Keep us posted on how you're doing with the rig. We are always glad to help.

A: from jd -- Jef posted on another forum that he and dog and RV are all fine. RV problem was no more than the electric choke not heating up and releasing, hence flooding. Got it to a good shop. They checked cam timing, did a compression test, finished the tuneup, set the timing, and he's on his way. There was a water pump failure during the middle of all this and they fixed that too.
All's well!
God Bless, jd

RVCN News Desk
Below are recent articles from the RV-Coach Network. For more news from the RV world, please visit our news articles section, where you are invited to contribute your own article.

A towable RV is an RV designed to be towed by a motorized vehicle (car, van or pickup truck) and of such size and weight as not to require a special highway movement permit. Towable RVs do not require permanent on-site hook-up.

A motorized RV is an RV built on or as an integral part of a self-propelled motor vehicle chassis, combining transportation and living quarters in one unit.

So what factors should you take into consideration when choosing an RV? Below are a few points that should be at the top of every buyer's checklist.

1. Type
The type of RV you choose should be based on your needs. Are you going to simply tailgate and take short trips to local areas? Or are you planning longer trips. Is your RV for a large family, or for just a couple of people? For a growing number of RV enthusiasts and owners, RVing isn't just an opportunity to enjoy the outdoors and each other, but is a viable option for traveling and staying in touch with technology. Decide if this is you before you buy and select features that work with your lifestyle.

2. Size
When evaluating size requirements for your RV, consider privacy of the occupants as a major factor. Time spent in the unit is another important item. For very short periods of time, most of us can tolerate cramped quarters. But as time periods extend, the amount of space required by each person increases -- both in the area of comfort and privacy, and also when it comes to storage. Where you want to camp plays a role as well. Make sure the places you want to visit can accommodate your choice.

3. Floor Plan
Settle on a floor plan that best suits your needs. Slideouts, for example, have become an integral part of today's motorhomes, allowing RVers to enjoy living space that extends beyond the basic frame of their unit. Also, don't overlook the details, such as bathroom configuration and privacy doors. A little extra research at the buying stage will pay off later in added comfort and enjoyment.

4. Price
Not everyone can pay cash for their RV. It's important to have some idea of your future RV plans before applying for a loan. If you expect to trade up for a larger or more expensive unit in the near future, try to finance your rig for a shorter period of time, or provide a larger down payment. Live within your means. The anxiety you will feel if overextended will ultimately diminish your enjoyment.

Whatever your RV needs - maxi or mini, luxury or budget-wise, motorized or towable, there's an RV sized and priced right for you.

Take your time and visit RV dealers in your area. Also, visit the vast number of web sites that have information -- most are not worth the visit, but your diligence will help you find those that are. Use the search engines to narrow your search. Finally, find out if there are rallies in your area and visit them. There, you will find a vast array of RV types all in one place. Moreover, you will find the people that own them. Their experience can go a long way in helping you decide which RV is right for you.

First, when selecting an inverter, don't look for brand. Look for type. Technological advances have led to very sophisticated, solid-state inverters, from 100 to over 5,000 watts, ultra-efficient, and with all sorts of advantages. Some of these use less than 10 percent of the energy consumed when fully loaded and less than 1 percent at lesser inputs to run their own components. At first glance, these are not cheap. But in terms of efficiency and the dollars-per-watt cost compared to what you get out of them, they're cheaper than the alternative "cheapy" models. Some can be held in your palm and simply plugged into a 12V DC receptacle. Other, larger output models require elaborate installation. Some have features and options well worth the added cost.

Second, keep in mind that your power needs depend on your RVing plans. You don't need to buy a 20-ton truck to pull a 10-foot camper. Likewise, you wouldn't pull a large trailer with an economy car. If you only want to operate a computer, all you may need is a small, 300-watt inverter. On the other hand, if you're going to run a microwave or power tools, you may need a 1,200-watt or larger inverter. You may find that having more than one inverter makes sense. Calculate the amount of power you need by looking on the back of your appliances. Then buy accordingly.

Third, when considering the amount of power you will need, remember that the power listed for the inverter may not be the constant power output rating, but the surge power rating. You'll want to know this so that all your power requirements are handled properly. Here's some things to consider:

Output Power (in watts) -- You'll need to get an inverter capable of more than the max watts you'll use at one time. The maximum power is not usually the maximum sustainable power. Good companies will show, for example, that their 1,500-watt inverter might operate at maximum power for 15 minutes and at 1,100 watts continuously. If their inverter actually does run continuously at its rated power, that should be the only number. Ask questions to be sure.

Surge Power -- The surge power should range from about two to six times the output power. You'll need this to start heavy loads, capacitor-start motors, and the like. How long does the surge last? Although most manufacturers don't commonly list this figure, surge power is typically available for two minutes or so. For the most part, that's all that's needed. If the surge lasted much longer, the unit would just get hot and ruin itself.

Idle Current or No Load Power Drain -- An important figure if you plan to leave the inverter turned on (idling) so that it automatically delivers full power when an appliance is turned on. This can equal nearly 20 watts of 12-volt power in some brands (20W at 12V = 1.7 Amps). You certainly don't want an idling/standby inverter to constantly drain over 1 1/2 amps from your battery. Quality inverters draw only a fraction of an amp (as little as a tenth, or much less, of an amp) at idle.

Efficiency -- Another critical figure. It should exceed 90 percent overall in most inverters. It should not vary much from partial to full loads. Beware of inverters that advertise 90+ percent overall efficiency but may drop to less than 50 percent at some load levels.

The list above covers the key comparison figures. Others, such as output voltage and frequency regulation should also be compared but will be similar in high-quality inverters. Note that top quality inverters will regulate voltage, for example, to within 2 percent of the rated 120V AC. This is better than your power company, which usually regulates voltage to only ±5 percent!

Cost -- As when buying anything else, just make sure you don't mix apples and oranges. It's complicated when shopping for inverters because even models sharing a common brand can vary widely in capacity and quality of components. Even though they look alike, they may not be alike. Many inverter manufacturers make top-of-the-line models for reliability, maximum performance, and durability while also offering a similar model intended for light or intermittent use (sometimes called a "consumer" version).

There are more considerations in buying a inverter for your RV. Make sure you do your homework, since this will save you many hours of frustration and money. Select the inverter that is right for your needs, and don't think that, because it is cheaper, you are truly benefiting in the end. Calculate your power based on your RV lifestyle needs, and then make your purchase with confidence. Happy RVing!

The credit for much of this article's content goes to Phred Tinseth.